Hinduism offers answers to innumerable cryptic puzzles of life that are very simple to observe but too complex to gauge through available information in the current scientific system of understanding and research. 1500 year old Chottanikkara Bhagawathy temple situated in the suburbs of Ernakulam in the state of Kerala carries forward the ancient system of ritual worship centred around Goddess Bhadrakali that untangles the web of paranormal and supernatural through mantric practices. Precincts of this majestic temple exudes a distinct aura and energy field that follows a devotee in and around the temple.
God’s own country, Kerala can also be called a land of festivals, temples and rituals. During a recent visit to Kochi, I was impelled to visit Chottanikkara Bhagawati Kshetram, a powerful devi temple located at 9.9331° N, 76.3911° E, in the suburbs of Ernakulam. Believed to be more than 1500 year old, the temple carries a mystical force around its precincts that dwells around a devotee visiting the temple.
According to legend a forest dweller
named Kannappan who practiced animal sacrifice lived in deep jungles where
Chottanikkara temple exists today . To
please his ista devata (Bhadrakali or Durga) he used to sacrifice one beast each
day. Eventually a day came when he had no animals left for sacrifice except his
daughter’s pet calf but his daughter preferred to sacrifice her own life than
her pet calf’s. It is then when Kannappan had a revelation and heard his ista
devata’s voice which turned out to be the calf he was going to sacrifice. That
day Kannappan realized the ultimate truth of life. The place where Kannappan sacrificed animals
to please Bhadrakali eventually became the guruthi kalalm of keezkavu at
Chottanikkara temple. The place is
believed to hold immense healing powers that can alleviate people haunted by
supernatural spirits or those who are mentally deranged for whom modern
medicine offers no answers.
Chottanikkara (Jyotikara)
literally translates into ‘One who enlightens. Possessing unlimited powers
through manifestation of Mahakali, Mahalakshmi and Mahasaraswati, the temple is
consecrated as a deity with multifarious manifestations of energy. Worship of the deities in this temple is
believed to cure even life-threatening diseases. The temple housed in a massive
compound placed at two levels. The
higher level comprises of the primary sanctum sanctorum of Bhagavathy and Lord
Vishnu besides other deities including Dharma Sastha, Siva, Brahma, Ganesha,
Karikeya, Hanuman Swamy and the serpent gods (Nagas). The lower level houses
the Keezhu Kavu where another temple of Bhadrakali exists beside a pond
(mentioned earlier) where special Guruthi Poojas are conducted to cast away
evil spirits out of people or from those who are believed to be possessed by
supernatural forces often referred to by the medical fraternity as extreme
cases of Schizophrenia or people with mental maladies to whom modern medicine
does not offer any relief.
Original Idol of Devi in the main
temple is consecrated in irregular shaped red laterite stone that is believed
to be ‘svayambhu’ or self-revealed. However, temple priests decorate the idol
in elaborate jewels or Gold Kavacha for general darshan. However, in the mornings, the idol is draped
in white saree representing Saraswati, a bright red saree at noon representing
Mahalakshmi and in a blue saree in the evening to represent Mahakali or Durga.
The Chottanikkara Bhagavathy amman (goddess) and the
Keezhu Kaavu Bhadrakali amman are worshipped as the healing goddesses. Interestingly, in Hindu faith, Bhadakali is
believed to be the patron goddess of exorcism.
Thus, this temple is a unique blend in shakti worship, which gives a visitor
a glimpse of the paranormal activities manifesting in the region through some
of the devotees. The temple also has an ancient ‘Pala’ tree (Alstonia
scholaris) which has hundreds of iron nails implanted by devotees using their
foreheads, who have been cured of possession by malevolent spirits. The tree is a testimony to the miraculous
healing through pooja and darshan at this temple, a fact that can be verified
through the rising number of devotees to this temple with passage of time.
Considering the large number of
devotees who bring in their relatives suffering from psychosomatic conditions or
Schizophrenia at this temple, makes me believe that this temple is indeed a
space that exhibits a higher level of energy that makes exorcism, a science
that needs more research and understanding. The above stated medical condition
is managed through a ritual called Guruthi
Pooja at Keezh Kaavu pond. The arena
transforms into a supernatural location each evening, where a ritual Guruthi
(ritualistic sacrifice) involving chanting of divine verses and offerings in
the form of pots (12 in number) is performed using a mixture of turmeric and
lime that transforms into a blood red liquid representing sacrificial blood to
the Devi. The sight is certainly not for
the faint hearted and can be quite disturbing too, as innumerable devotees
suffering from mental issues can be seen turning hysterical during Guruthi
pooja oblivious to the presence of other devotees.
Amidst the screaming, wailing and
laugher it is a stark silence that makes the entire event leave an indelible
mark in the mind of a visitor. I was alarmed
to see a 20 year old looking girl turn hysterical in front of me. A pretty girl of about 5’2 in height, a body
and attire that reflected affluence but a mind that had lost sense of the
real. She had abruptly starting shaking
her hands fiercely and an eerie laugher emanated from her lips. I tried to take my eyes away but my head kept
moving to witness her condition. She was
laughing and crying at the same time.
Her relatives (perhaps her father) tried to hold her to prevent any
injury but suddenly adjacent to her, another woman started shaking her body
violently, as if a chain of hysterical confusion had been set to motion in the
arena. The entire place seemed to be in possession of some super natural spirit!
Personally, I find myself to be a
believer who tends to tread the path of rationality and scientific temper. A
visit to the temple was an eye opener to the fact that supernatural energy and
vibrations do affect our physical and mental faculties. Scientists offer many theories to such
occurrences. In Florence, Italy, there have been instances in the early 19th
Century when people have been found to faint while taking in Florentine art. This was later named as ‘Florence Syndrome’ in
1979 by Italian psychiatrist Graziella Magherini who observed over a hundred
similar cases among tourists. Similar is the experience of several visitors to
the city of Jerusalem who are said to get afflicted by a syndrome which was
regarded as a form of hysteria referred to as "fièvre
Jérusalemienne".
I would not call this a ‘Chottanikkara
syndrome’, as we Indians have our own treatise on spiritualism, occult sciences
and temple rituals. Our Vedas have deep
discourses on aspects that cannot even be in the line of vision of modern
sciences. It seems as if the Vedas begin
from where scientific research ends its dissertation. Modern medical sciences offer tangible
solutions and remedies to innumerable physical and mental diseases but there
are a million other ailments that do not have any scientific answers.
Spirituality and temple darshans are perhaps the only succour left in
situations where medical fraternity asks humans to have faith in God!
Chottanikkara Bhagawati temple is
indeed a temple to be in, if you wish to get into a state of trance and charge
your metaphysical energies. Irrespective
of your scientific understanding, do attend the Guruthy ritual that will make
you realize that life is truly precious. I believe, Hinduism offers answers to innumerable
cryptic puzzles of life, in forms and representations that are very simple to
observe but too complex to gauge through knowledge available in the current scientific systems of
understanding and research.
*****
Date of Visit: 28 June, 2022
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