Wednesday, May 28, 2025

 

Hello Cloud....

New Delhi/28th May, 2025 (As it rains in Palakkad)


Hello Cloud, I am unable to catch up with you

You drift afar on winds I cannot pursue;

My feet are chained to earth, yet heart beats true

To sip thy wine from places longings reside blue

Each drop you spill, I yearn to kiss anew,

A yearning, a  silent bliss, I wish to renew.

 

But skies are vast and I am impishly slow,

And you soar where mortal men can’t go.

 

I called thee once in gardens drenched in dew

Where lilies leaned and whispered songs new;

Thou wept a while, as if thy soul always knew

The thirst I bore, the ache time couldn't continue

 

Now, thy mist retreats from passion's shore—

Thou say's, “My path obeys a deeper lore.”

 

O cruel seraph sailing sapphire seas,

Dost not thy breast - feel tremors born in encore?

I built thee altars, knelt in dewy lees,

And drank thy scent like consecrated seas.

But fate, thou say’st, is stitched in winds above,

And thou art torn from touch, though made for love.

 

So let me lay down where fallen raindrops still gleam,

And feel thee near where twilight’s silver edges lean—

Though thou deny me now, I keep my dream

Where fragrant lotus sings thee through heady sheen

 

And if I wake to drought or sorrow’s hue,

I’ll sigh once more to whisper.. I couldn't catch up with you!


jpkallikkal/in wait/2025

******



Friday, May 23, 2025

O+ve

 


jpkallikkal©2025

O+ve

I am no phlebotomist but if I were friends with the Culicidae family, I would have been a billionaire today. Since early years, I discovered that the females from the Anopheles family were very fond of me.  The nymphomaniac variety would seek me out in the dark and plant their deepest kisses on my epidermis. The foreplay and after play sessions invariably left a long-lasting imprint on my body.  I would thereafter carry signs of such nocturnal quests several weeks into the future in the form of red visible perturbations.  An itchy reminder of their continuing love affair with me.

Life is never easy in a tropical temperamental God’s own country where number of female species outnumber males! With passage of time, I have discovered new patterns and changes in my temporal existence having to encounter tastes and preferences of such lot.  I learnt new ways to face them.  My experiments with truth showed that repellents, swat racquets or nets never really deterred these determined femme fatales and they  continue to chase me out in the dark.

As I watch the sun set into the distant horizon, I have learned to cope up with destiny. Allurements of the worldly perhaps keep such enchantresses drawing life from me through day and night.  I have laid down my defenses. I no longer seek revenge or hold grudges against them. I am tamed today and invariably bow down to their oeuvre.   

Be positive, I would whisper to myself.  

Someone with O+ve blood group is bound to be generous and donor some.

Enjoy the bite if it is inevitable!

O+ve - A universal....


Tuesday, May 20, 2025

 

 

Kanniyarkali – New heights – Rising glory

Jaya Prakash Kallikkal




Enmeshed in the cultural ethos of Palakkad are traditions that have delectable mix of Kerala Nair community and its culture.  A tinge of folk dance and music traditions, drawing inspiration from various historical and social traditions from Chera, Pallava and Chola dynasties resonate through Kanniyarkali. Interweaving the life of common folk creatively communicated through the medium of story-telling, mono acting, group dance, costume, theatre and musical traditions Kanniyarkali, encapsulates folk traditions.

 

Palakkad upholds a unique identity in the landscape of Kerala. Often referred to as ‘The Granary of Kerala’, passage of time has not penetrated this gem of a land in the map of Kerala. While towering concrete structures and crowded market places are replacing rural topography with passage of time, Palakkad is perhaps a hidden paradise that greets a visitor to a vast expanse of virgin green lands bordered by pretty hills endowed with a cultural heritage that retains its innate freshness and charm.  

Passage of time has not shrunk the cultural identity of Palakkadan lifestyle. The village temples continue to conduct age old rituals and some of the festivities (Velas and Poorams) like Nemmara Vela find its rightful place in the Kerala Tourist calender and have world-wide following. 

In the chain of temple festivities in the district of Palakkad, a distinct folk dance form known as Kanniyar Kali continues to be followed with fervor by the Nair Community.  Primarily known as Desathukali, Kanniyarkali is a vibrant folk art form deeply rooted in the cultural landscape of Palakkad. This folk-dance-drama tradition is performed, celebrated and followed with great fervor in several agrarian villages of the Palakkad plains, especially in and around Chittur Taluk, during the Vishu season (mid-April), coinciding with the end of the harvest.

Kanniyarkali is not merely a folk dance form that is limited to few members or an hour of performance.  It enshrines the principles of story telling, mono acting, group dance, costume and musical tradition drawing inspirations from various historical and social traditions that extends from night to dawn for several days. Communities collectively organize this event where representation of  village (deshams) is considered a matter of immense pride.


During the season of Kanniyarkali celebrations, the performances commence each night with the men of the community gathering in the temples and performing a rhythmic circular dance called vattakali (vattakali literally means a circular dance). The vattakali is followed by several 'puraattu' kalis.  The purattu does not have a standard format and each purattu lasts for an hour. The purattu depicts the life and social customs of various castes and tribes of medieval Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Since the purattu depict various heterogeneous castes and tribes, the various purattus have different costumes, style of dancing and songs with different tempos. Certain purattu which depict fierce tribes or warrior tribes have performances resembling stick fights and martial movements whereas certain other purattus have slow and rhythmic movements. Certain purattus are laced with humor and depict a scenario wherein a long lost husband and wife have a reunion.

Kanniyar kali performances are primarily conducted near or in vicinity of a temple in a specially constructed arena called a Kanniyarkali pandal which is consists of a roof supported by nine pillars and is square shaped.  Colourful floral decorations adorns the performance area  where a nilaviakku (a lighted lamp) is placed in the centre where the singers occupy the central position of the stage and the dancers dance along the periphery of the pandal in a circular and weave pattern.  There are also solo and group performances with Question and Answer sessions with song and music sessions. The lyrics of the songs are mostly in Malayalam and certain porattus have lyrics with influence of Tamil and Dravidian society. The singers are accompanied by artists who play various musical instruments such as the Elatalam, Chenda, Maddalam and the chengalam.

The participants are primarily men and women are represented by cross-dressing men who imitate the body language and way of speaking of women.  However, changing times are witnessing advent of young girls into the pantheon of Kanniyarkali performers.

Enmeshed in the cultural ethos of Palakkad and God’s Own Country, Kanniyarkali has today transcended geographic boundaries of Kerala and is touching new heights and recognition.  Kanniyarkali performances in Middle East and foreign nations is getting due recognition.  This traditional folk dance and music form from Palakkad, Kerala is now an folk dance/music tradition that has been given due recognition by Kerala State Government and Department of Culture.  University of Delhi has assigned additional points for students proficient in this folk dance form, seeking admission through the cultural segment.  Kanniyarkali has withstood the challenges of time.

 Recent event by Kerala Kanniyarkali Arts Promotion Council (KKAPC)

Kerala Kanniyarkali Arts Promotion Council (KKAPC) organized a two day Kanniyarkali festival on 16 & 17 May, 2025 at Pallasena which was streamed live on You Tube.  The event witnessed assembly of large number of troupes from several villages (deshams) from Palakkad and their performances were watched by thousand of Kanniyarkali lovers from across the globe.  

Several deshams gave solo and group performances at Pallasena. Performances by Thiruvazhiyad, Kuzhalmannam, Anju Moorthy, Kizhakkencherry, Puthiyangam, Kuthanoor deshams and Pallasana formed integral part of the programme and got huge accolades.  

Names of the prominent groups who participated in the event organised by KKAPC (alongwith the dance item) are listed below:

1.         Kakkayoor -            Koottapooshari

2.        Pallavoor Padijarethara Sangham – Kootta Thottiyan

3.        Iranjimannam Desham, Kollengode – Kootapooshari

4.        Athipotta Desham: Cheruchathan

5.        Vavulliyapuram desham – Panan Paatti

6.        Kattuserri Desham – Mannan Mannathi

7.        Pallasena Desham – Malayar

8.        Cheramangalam Desham – Iratta Mudukar

9.        Pullot Desham – Kootta Malayar

10.      Ayalur Thekke Thara – Koota Mudugar

11.      Pallavoor Kizhakke Sangham – Thottiyan Thottichi

12.      Pulinelli Desham - Vettuvakanakkar

13.      Nemmara Desham – Kootta Chakkiliyar

14.      Rishi Narada Managala Desham: Vettuvakanakkar.

15.      Koduvayoor Karuvannoor Thara – Cherumi Cheruman

16.      Kunisseri Kizhakke Thara – Kootta Thottiyar

15.      Vadavannur Desham – Kurathi Kuravan.

16.      Vanoor Desham – Otta Chakkiliyar

17.      Ayiloor Thara -        Cheru Chathan

18.      Pulinelli Desham – Vella Kodishi, Vesha Kodishi

19.      Nemmara Desham – Kurathi Kuravan

20.      Koduvayoor Karuvannur Thara – Kootta Mariyamma

21.      Kunisseri Kizhakke Thara – Kurathi Kuravan

22.      Vadavannur Desham – Malayan.






Monday, March 11, 2024

Festival of letters

 #sahityaakademi


Festival of Letters

Festival is a celebration that is inclusive and brings about a sense of joy in participation, sharing and dwelling among a large confluence of like-minded individuals in a community.  Festival of letters focuses on literature and significantly brings together a large gathering of celebrated writers, poets and experts excelling in the world of literature..

Sahitya Akademi once again hosts Festival of letters at Rabindra Bhawan in New Delhi between 11th and 16th March, 2024.  Expected to be largest literature festival in the world, featuring more than 1100 writers representing more than 175 languages, this year the festival is envisaged to have more than 190 sessions where discussions, deliberations will be initiated encompassing a wide gamut of themes and activities revolving around the world of writing and literature.

Some of the themes slated for the first day of the festival include Yuva Sahiti – Short story readings, Poetry, The Mirror of Soul, Why Do I Write?, Multilingual poetry reading etc. The second day of the festival dwells on themes such as What Literature Means to Me?, The Idea of India, Translation in a Multilingual, Multi cultural Society (this session is chaired by Alok Bhalla and has eminent writer, poet, translator Ms.Bina Biswas).  Other themes are The Future of Poetry, Importance of Mother tongues, Tribal Poets’ Meet etc. Day 03 of the festival i.e.13th March, 2024 has LGBTQ Poets’ Meet, 21st Century Indian Writing in English, Novels of Future, Authors, Publishers and Copyright issues, What Freedom means to Me?, Literature and Social Movements etc. Day 04 dwells on topics such as Books to Reels & Reels to Book: Interplay of Cinema & Literature, Writing: Passion or Profession?, Playwriting in India, Creativity boosting Education, Folk  tales of India.  Similarly, rest of the days too have a large number of immersive topics that would be brain stormed and discussed amongst the Masters, teachers, students and public interested in Literature.

The festival arena set up in Rabindra Bhawan has stalls displaying books from Sahitya Akademi which are for sale.  The venue also has number of enclosures named Valmiki Sabhagar, Ved Vyasa Sabhagar, Mirabai Sabhagar, Kabir Sabhagar,  Tulsidas Sabhagar, La led Sabhagar, Sankaradeva Sabhagar, Narsi Mehta Sabhagar etc  where panel discussions, poetry/story reading sessions etc. will be conducted.  Programmes are also listed in Meghdoot open air theatre and Kamani Auditorium, where Sahitya Akademi 2023 Award winners will be felicitated.

This year apart from writers from other languages, E. V. Ramakrishnan, an eminent writer, critic and translator in Malayalam/English born in 1949, hailing from Kannur, Kerala is being awarded for Malayala Novelinte Deshakalangal,  a work of exceptional literary criticism in Malalayam which traces the evolution of Malayalam novel from its origin in the late 19th Century to the early 21st century through the Nationalist, Progressive and Post Modernist phases of evolution in time.

Jpkallikkal/2024/New Delhi

Friday, August 4, 2023

 

                                                                     REUNION

 

The other day my wife broached upon the subject of school re-unions.  She said, hers is likely to happen on the New Year eve 2024.

‘Great Idea’!, I said.

‘But this time it is going to be with spouse, I mean you have to join me’, she retorted

‘With Me?  Naa... I am not interested to meet your classmates!  Neither would they be’, I muttered.

‘No, no, you should attend this one, my friends would be happy to meet you’, she said.

 ‘Let me think it over’, I replied.

Social media, especially watsapp, facebook, Instagram have added a new dimension to human connections.  A decade ago few schools and colleges had alumini meets but rarely did entire bunch of classmates or batchmates decided to meet up to relive old times through re-unions so frequently as now.  While human brains seek reassurance and bonding in social terms, studies indicate that social connections and support forms a critical space for physical and emotional well being of human beings.  Such responses are often triggered by neurotransmitters present in the human body in form of hormones. Re-unions are occasions when nostalgia is evoked.  Past experiences and present circumstances conjoin to bring out new set of emotions.  These are triggered on meeting long lost friends and mates with whom a significant phase of adolescence is spent during school or college times.  Nostalgia often plays an important aspect on people seeking to meet over re-unions.  According to  a study published in Journal of Social Cognitive and Affective Neuroscience, such re-unions trigger important neurotransmitters such and dopamine and Oxytocin during social bonding.  Oxytocin which is also called the ‘love hormone’ perhaps justifies the urge of human minds to repeatedly seek opportunities to kindle past memories that are joy through such get together.   

 It is not necessary that each person enjoys the same set of emotions during re-unions.  There may be many who may not enjoy reunions and may feel anxious during such occasions.  This could be due to trauma or pain experienced with individuals or occasions in the past that they fear may get re-kindled during such occasions.  On such occasions people who struggle with social anxiety may in fact end up triggering their stress hormones such as Cortisol which may make them more stressful and uncomfortable.

Present is as much an excitement as the past.  However, I find that each phase of life takes mood and temperament of a person to different directions during different points in time.  A mood of an individual may vary depending upon his personal well being and social status.  Someone who has not performed well professionally or financially in his life may not be keen to meet up his/her old mates fearing adverse reaction from them.  On the contrary a highly successful person may be more than happy to share his success story with his long lost friends.

I on my part have been part of numerous reunions and gettogethers.  My observation as to the mode, venue, time, season and size of the gathering has impelled me to write this piece.  I have discovered that joy of meeting long lost friends is indeed a joy filled experience however if the reunion is organised over dinner or lunch  most attendees end up being one to one with select few friends and over a period of a hour or two and the entire group gets scattered.  Primary focus invariably gets into food and drinks than any worthwhile discussion or deliberation.  Common interests do not persist and few from the group try to snatch away the discussion towards their own comfort and direction.  Those specializing in sales and marketing over do it to such an extent that many feel that their voices are stymied or muffled and they suffer in silence.  

In the Indian context,  I have observed that persons who volunteer and perform any acts are treated as a character from the Hindi Movie from ‘Bheja Fry’! I am reminded of an experience during a get-together, when the host/compare went on stage to announce, “While some of our dear friends will entertain us with their songs and music, let us (meaning the rest) head towards the dinner table to splurge on some delicious dishes that have specially been ordered for the occasion’. I to may dismay found the entire bunch of around 100 persons lunged towards the dinner area deserting the poor performers on stage and their voices deluged under sounds of clanking crockery, laughs and loud harangues!

Food is another issue during such get-togethers in the Indian context.  While there is never a final agreement on choice of dishes, Vegan over Non Veg., Chinese over continental, North over South etc. spats continue much after the meetups without compromise.  If the get-together are laced with drinks then the situation often witnesses dramatic turn around.  The social drinkers get on a high and past friendships are rekindled in unknown ways.  This is the occasion when names of old flames catch flight and mingle with the fragrance in the air, secret stories from the past are laid bare making many faces change hues.  It takes a sober leader from the crowd to rise up on such occasions to calm nerves.

At this juncture, I am reminded of another story, when spouse of a class mate (a celebrity settled abroad) decided to throw a surprise party to all the batch mates on the occasion of birthday of her husband.   While all the batch mates knew each other, none ever had met this lady.  The invitation was extended to entire families and a large group of friends including their spouses and children landed up at the designated restaurant on the designated day at around 7pm.  It was a reunion of sorts, as it was two decades after passing out from school that the batch mates were meeting up! Birthday boy (meaning our friend) had not arrived but his wife was all dressed up for the occasion waiting at the foyer with her set of relatives beckoning all the invitees to join them.   She announced that the bar was open and the group may kick off the evening with Cocktails and snacks, while her husband was enroute.  When our friend finally arrived at 9pm, I noticed the colour on his face change on witnessing a large group of known faces (his school mates) revving up the party.  The party had kicked off around 7.30 pm and all went on fine till 11pm.  However, it was time when the resto manager was pleading with guests to start off dinner.  Though the cake was cut, the boisterous male members who were already high would not  keep their glasses away and kept on requesting for repeats. It was 12 at night when some female members got tizzy and the party mood changed colours.   Few kids were already asleep having guzzled up soft drinks and juices. Food was yet to be served!  The resort was to close at 1am and like fait accompli at the insistence of Resto Manger few brave spouses announced dinner open. However it was a shock to see few male members threatening the hotel management to keep the Bar open till dawn!  

Alas! There never was news of any other party or reunion thrown in by this lady thereafter!            

So much about reunions.  It is time to attend one.  Are you game for it?

I am certainly planning to join my wife on her next school reunion. 


                                                                          **************

Saturday, September 17, 2022

Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagavathar: Transcending boundaries of time

                                                Transcending boundaries of time


Chembai Memorial at Kottayi, Palakkad

Palakkad is a rare gem in the cultural milieu of fascinating geographical diversity that God’s Own Country presents to the world.  The district has to its name innumerable personalities who have excelled and have been recognised for their contributions to the world and humanity through their talent, hard work and dedication.  One such towering personality is doyen of Carnartic Music, Chembai Vaidyantha Bhagwathar For a lover of Carnatic Music, a visit to Kerala will be incomplete without a visit to Chembai Gramam, home of the legendary Carnatic Vocalist who has taken this musical form to great heights.

 

Music connects real with the transcended. 

In it, we get healed, with it we conquer time…  

Hidden amidst green paddy fields and a serene country side is a sleepy village of Kottayi which has taken Carnatic Music to great heights.  A visit to  this village is akin to visit to a temple of music that awakens the light of knowledge and melody of life in one’s heart. Home and abode of doyen of Carnatic Music, Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagavathar.

Karuna Cheivan Endu Thamasam Krishna

 (Why is there so much delay in conferring your mercy, Krishna?}, was the last Kriti sung by Vaidyanathan Bhagavathar, as he breathed his last on 16th October, 1974 at an age of 78 during a concert at Poozhikunnu Sreekrishna Temple, the same venue where he performed for the first time.

Ancestral House of Chembai at Kottayi

Born on 1st September, 1896 at Chembai Village to Parvati Ammal and Anantha Bhagavatar, Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagavatar belonged to a Tamil Brahmin family of Perakkool Madaom which is located adjacent to Lokanarkavu near Vadakara.  The family thereafter relocated to Kottayi village in the district of Palakkad. Bhagavatar’s family connection to classical music spans across five centuries. His father Anantha Bhagavatar was a violinist and singer to whom Maharaja had awarded the title of ‘Gana Chakraratnam’ for his speciality of musical rendition through a special closed mouth style of signing called tanam.  Anathan’s son Vaidyanathan started his early lessons in Carnatic music at a tender age of 3 under the tutelage of his father in the traditional guru-shishya Parampara. He also took lessons in violin and flute till 1912.

As years passed by Vaidyanathan’s voice grew more powerful and majestic.  Some of his awe-inspiring performances in his early years gave shape to his career that started with his arangetram at Ottapalam in 1904 at an age of 09.. His voice timber was noted for its unique depth and vibrance.  He gave innumerable performances between 1907 and 1927 most notably ones  at Vaikom and Guruvayoor in 1907 and thereafter at different music sabhas and festivals which included ones at Madras Music Academy and Jagannatha Bhakta Sabha.

Powerful singing style of Chembai caught public attention and his fame spread far and wide.  Music critic S. V. Seshari@Aeolus described him as, ‘the musician who has meant the most to Carnatic Music in the first fifty years of 20th Century’.  Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagawatar was a recipient of several titles and honours including the Madras Music Academy’s Sanageetha Kalanidhi in 1951 and Government of India’s Padma Shree in the year

One major incident in the year 1952 changed the course of Bhagwatar’s life.  One morning Chembai discovered that he had lost his voice and could not sing or chant his favourite diety Guruvayoorappan’s name.  His prayers seemed to have been answered by a stranger who appeared before him and provided treatment over a period of 18 days at the residence of Nilakantan Namboodiri in Poomallianmana. Chembai recovered his voice and returned to sing with renewed vigour and devotion for Lord Guruvayoorappan and also donated significant proportion of his earning for Guruvayoor temple.

Resonance and depth in Chembai’s voice was the hallmark of a great Carnatic vocalist who was unquestioned king during his times.  His vigorous, strong, vibrant and ringing voice  was  clear, open-throated which required high levels of physical and mental endurance.  Bhagwathar with his sheer practice and dedication sang in a seemingly effortless manner.  He also had a unique sense of kala pramana (time measure) while singing.  He could do niraval and swaraprastara from any given point  which aptly displayed his mental alertness during a concert. 

Chembai Home

Chemabi whole heartedly gave encouragement to upcoming musicians.  He popularised several Carnatic compositions including Pavana Guru and Rakshamam Saranagatam.  His prominent disciples included stalwarts like K. J. Yesudas, P. Leela, K. G. Vijayan, V. V. Subramanyan, T. V. Gopalakrishnan, Guruvayoor Ponnammal, Mangu Thampuran and Chembai Narayana Bhagvatar. He also mentored many aspiring accompanists who included Palakkad Mani Iyer, Lalgudi Jayaraman,M. S. Gopalakrishnan, T. N. Krishnan and L. Subramaniam.


Padma Bhushan

Chembai’s music career spanned several decades. Glory of his singing finds testimony is the statements of stalwarts of music who showered him with praises for his strengths and his unique rendition techniques. 

Sangeetha Kalanidhi G. N. Balasubramaniam is said to have remarked "These are not ordinary men. These are the Asuras of the music field. If I sing one concert, I need to rest the whole of next day". 

Legendary percussionist Pudukkottai Dakshinamurthy Pillai would call him "Laya Brahma" for his impeccable grasp of tala and laya.

Sangeetha Kalanidhi K. V. Narayanaswamy has also remarked on Chembai's ability to hold notes aligned perfectly to sruti for extended intervals of time.

During his career, Chembai also helped popularize songs written by his friend T. G. Krishna Iyer of Thripunithara.  Krishna Iyer had composed as many as 155 kritis in various languages including Telugu, Malayalam, Tamil anld Sanskrit and sought help of Chembai to popularise these songs set to Classical Carnatic style and published as Lalita Dasar Keetanangal. Chembai rendered these kritis which were later released as records. Some the gems include kritis like Evariki Telusunamma (Dhanyasi), Ennil Kaninda (Shankarabharanam), Pavana Guru (Hamsanandi), Varijadala Lochani (Arabhi) among others.  As a token of love for Chembai, T. G. Krishna Iyer offered his house in Chennai at Santhome on Palace Road, Chennai forms part of Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagwatar’s heritage today.

Awards

During a performance at  concert at Poozhikunnu Sreekrishna Temple where he gave his debut performance, Chembai breathed his last on 16th October, 1974.  He was talking to his disciple Olappamanna Vasudevan Namboothiripad when Chembai collapsed and left for heavenly abode.  

Legacy of Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagwatar remains alive in the village of Chembai known as Chembai gramam which today is a heritage village. Situated with the geographical limits of Kottayi in the district of Palakkad.  The place hosts the annual Chembai Parthasarathy Ekadasi Music festival in memory of the great singer in February/March. Renowned singers perform music concerts during the festival.  Year long events and programmes for promoting Classical Carnatic Music are held in this village.


Chembai Music Academy at Kottayi

In memory of Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagawathar, Government Musical College in Palakkad has been renamed as 'Chembai Memorial Govt' Musical College’.  Initiatives of well wishers,  family members and followers of Chembai, the village of Chembai is set to become a heritage memorial village of South India that would attract connoisseurs of arts and music.  A cultural complex that can host bigger music festivals is being initiated with the support of the state government. 




Easy chair of Chembai placed in front of his home

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It was a delightful experience to have visited Chembai Village located at Kottayi on Legendary Musician's Birthday. His family members accorded warm welcome and opened up the door of their home for me to walk around and breathe in the soul of music revaberating through the walls, doors and windows of Chembai's home.

©jpkallikkal 2022





















Wednesday, June 29, 2022

In Trance: Chottanikkara Bhagawathy temple

 Hinduism offers answers to innumerable cryptic puzzles of life that are very simple to observe but too complex to gauge through available information in the current scientific system of understanding and research. 1500 year old Chottanikkara Bhagawathy temple situated in the suburbs of Ernakulam in the state of Kerala carries forward the ancient system of ritual worship centred around Goddess Bhadrakali that untangles the web of paranormal and supernatural through mantric practices.  Precincts of this majestic temple exudes a distinct aura and energy field that follows a devotee in and around the temple.


God’s own country, Kerala can also be called a land of festivals, temples and rituals. During a recent visit to Kochi, I was impelled to visit Chottanikkara Bhagawati Kshetram, a powerful devi temple located at 9.9331° N, 76.3911° E, in the suburbs of Ernakulam. Believed to be more than 1500 year old, the temple carries a mystical force around its precincts that dwells around a devotee visiting the temple.

According to legend a forest dweller named Kannappan who practiced animal sacrifice lived in deep jungles where Chottanikkara temple exists today .   To please his ista devata (Bhadrakali or Durga) he used to sacrifice one beast each day. Eventually a day came when he had no animals left for sacrifice except his daughter’s pet calf but his daughter preferred to sacrifice her own life than her pet calf’s. It is then when Kannappan had a revelation and heard his ista devata’s voice which turned out to be the calf he was going to sacrifice. That day Kannappan realized the ultimate truth of life.  The place where Kannappan sacrificed animals to please Bhadrakali eventually became the guruthi kalalm of keezkavu at Chottanikkara temple.  The place is believed to hold immense healing powers that can alleviate people haunted by supernatural spirits or those who are mentally deranged for whom modern medicine offers no answers.

Chottanikkara (Jyotikara) literally translates into ‘One who enlightens. Possessing unlimited powers through manifestation of Mahakali, Mahalakshmi and Mahasaraswati, the temple is consecrated as a deity with multifarious manifestations of energy.  Worship of the deities in this temple is believed to cure even life-threatening diseases. The temple housed in a massive compound placed at two levels.  The higher level comprises of the primary sanctum sanctorum of Bhagavathy and Lord Vishnu besides other deities including Dharma Sastha, Siva, Brahma, Ganesha, Karikeya, Hanuman Swamy and the serpent gods (Nagas). The lower level houses the Keezhu Kavu where another temple of Bhadrakali exists beside a pond (mentioned earlier) where special Guruthi Poojas are conducted to cast away evil spirits out of people or from those who are believed to be possessed by supernatural forces often referred to by the medical fraternity as extreme cases of Schizophrenia or people with mental maladies to whom modern medicine does not offer any relief.

Original Idol of Devi in the main temple is consecrated in irregular shaped red laterite stone that is believed to be ‘svayambhu’ or self-revealed. However, temple priests decorate the idol in elaborate jewels or Gold Kavacha for general darshan.  However, in the mornings, the idol is draped in white saree representing Saraswati, a bright red saree at noon representing Mahalakshmi and in a blue saree in the evening to represent Mahakali or Durga.




The Chottanikkara Bhagavathy amman (goddess) and the Keezhu Kaavu Bhadrakali amman are worshipped as the healing goddesses.  Interestingly, in Hindu faith, Bhadakali is believed to be the patron goddess of exorcism.  Thus, this temple is a unique blend in shakti worship, which gives a visitor a glimpse of the paranormal activities manifesting in the region through some of the devotees. The temple also has an ancient ‘Pala’ tree (Alstonia scholaris) which has hundreds of iron nails implanted by devotees using their foreheads, who have been cured of possession by malevolent spirits.  The tree is a testimony to the miraculous healing through pooja and darshan at this temple, a fact that can be verified through the rising number of devotees to this temple with passage of time.




Considering the large number of devotees who bring in their relatives suffering from psychosomatic conditions or Schizophrenia at this temple, makes me believe that this temple is indeed a space that exhibits a higher level of energy that makes exorcism, a science that needs more research and understanding. The above stated medical condition is managed through a ritual called  Guruthi Pooja at Keezh Kaavu pond.  The arena transforms into a supernatural location each evening, where a ritual Guruthi (ritualistic sacrifice) involving chanting of divine verses and offerings in the form of pots (12 in number) is performed using a mixture of turmeric and lime that transforms into a blood red liquid representing sacrificial blood to the Devi.  The sight is certainly not for the faint hearted and can be quite disturbing too, as innumerable devotees suffering from mental issues can be seen turning hysterical during Guruthi pooja oblivious to the presence of other devotees.

Amidst the screaming, wailing and laugher it is a stark silence that makes the entire event leave an indelible mark in the mind of a visitor.  I was alarmed to see a 20 year old looking girl turn hysterical in front of me.   A pretty girl of about 5’2 in height, a body and attire that reflected affluence but a mind that had lost sense of the real.  She had abruptly starting shaking her hands fiercely and an eerie laugher emanated from her lips.  I tried to take my eyes away but my head kept moving to witness her condition.  She was laughing and crying at the same time.  Her relatives (perhaps her father) tried to hold her to prevent any injury but suddenly adjacent to her, another woman started shaking her body violently, as if a chain of hysterical confusion had been set to motion in the arena. The entire place seemed to be in possession of some super natural spirit!

Personally, I find myself to be a believer who tends to tread the path of rationality and scientific temper. A visit to the temple was an eye opener to the fact that supernatural energy and vibrations do affect our physical and mental faculties.  Scientists offer many theories to such occurrences. In Florence, Italy, there have been instances in the early 19th Century when people have been found to faint while taking in Florentine art.  This was later named as ‘Florence Syndrome’ in 1979 by Italian psychiatrist Graziella Magherini who observed over a hundred similar cases among tourists. Similar is the experience of several visitors to the city of Jerusalem who are said to get afflicted by a syndrome which was regarded as a form of hysteria referred to as "fièvre Jérusalemienne".   

I would not call this a ‘Chottanikkara syndrome’, as we Indians have our own treatise on spiritualism, occult sciences and temple rituals.  Our Vedas have deep discourses on aspects that cannot even be in the line of vision of modern sciences.  It seems as if the Vedas begin from where scientific research ends its dissertation.  Modern medical sciences offer tangible solutions and remedies to innumerable physical and mental diseases but there are a million other ailments that do not have any scientific answers. Spirituality and temple darshans are perhaps the only succour left in situations where medical fraternity asks humans to have faith in God!

Chottanikkara Bhagawati temple is indeed a temple to be in, if you wish to get into a state of trance and charge your metaphysical energies.  Irrespective of your scientific understanding, do attend the Guruthy ritual that will make you realize that life is truly precious. I believe, Hinduism offers answers to innumerable cryptic puzzles of life, in forms and representations that are very simple to observe but too complex to gauge through knowledge  available in the current scientific systems of understanding and research.

*****

Date of Visit: 28 June, 2022

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